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kdeckard
08-08-2011, 09:56 AM
So, I have never sold cards before and I was wondering if there were any tips that you would have for me.

I guess my questions are this:

What % BV is a good asking price?

Does the % change for different kinds of cards? (inserts, GU, AU, base)

Is there usually a shipping cost on top of that, or does the seller usually eat the shipping cost?

Thanks for your help!

Keith

kdeckard
09-07-2011, 09:39 AM
bump

cmcjr99
09-07-2011, 09:53 AM
sent you a pm....off to work now , but if you reply to it , i'll get back to you tonight....

rotorob
09-07-2011, 10:43 AM
Keith –
****Log read warning****
The question really becomes what is your goal in selling cards. Are you trying to turn a profit, get rid of clutter, fuel your collecting habit (that's the one for me), or is there something else?
Where you sell makes a difference as well, ebay (make sure you cover all the fees or you'll more or less send free cards), here, local shows, to your friends all have different answers.

To get some concrete answers, research completed listings on ebay, but don't take it as gospel, that will get you an idea of what a buyer is willing to pay. There are times that there are unsold cards at .99, that doesn't mean the card has no value, just that someone didn’t want it at that time.

As a very general rule, base, inserts\parallels tend to bring the lowest %, RC’s and G\U next and autos the most. The more popular the card, the higher % it will bring. Even high BV autos, may have to be majorly discounted to move them, sometimes a low BV auto, can bring above BV. Certain set and player collectors can really drive up prices when they compete with each other over rarer cards. Paying postage is done best on a case by case basis. If someone only wants a card or 2, you could lose money by paying postage, but if someone wants to buy more than (arbitrary number picked) $100 asking for postage, may seem petty.

There are some cards I don’t sell, because they bring more in trade than I could get in $, there are some I know my asking price is too, high but I won’t part with the card unless I get my price, there are some I could get more for if I held on a little longer, but just want to get rid of it.

Sorry for the length of the post, with no real answers, but that is my .02, (probably asking too high for that:)) Hope it helps.

bigbov
09-07-2011, 11:01 AM
The above post should be a sticky.
Nice job Robert.

Adam

kdeckard
09-07-2011, 01:13 PM
Keith Ė
****Log read warning****
The question really becomes what is your goal in selling cards. Are you trying to turn a profit, get rid of clutter, fuel your collecting habit (that's the one for me), or is there something else?
Where you sell makes a difference as well, ebay (make sure you cover all the fees or you'll more or less send free cards), here, local shows, to your friends all have different answers.

To get some concrete answers, research completed listings on ebay, but don't take it as gospel, that will get you an idea of what a buyer is willing to pay. There are times that there are unsold cards at .99, that doesn't mean the card has no value, just that someone didnít want it at that time.

As a very general rule, base, inserts\parallels tend to bring the lowest %, RCís and G\U next and autos the most. The more popular the card, the higher % it will bring. Even high BV autos, may have to be majorly discounted to move them, sometimes a low BV auto, can bring above BV. Certain set and player collectors can really drive up prices when they compete with each other over rarer cards. Paying postage is done best on a case by case basis. If someone only wants a card or 2, you could lose money by paying postage, but if someone wants to buy more than (arbitrary number picked) $100 asking for postage, may seem petty.

There are some cards I donít sell, because they bring more in trade than I could get in $, there are some I know my asking price is too, high but I wonít part with the card unless I get my price, there are some I could get more for if I held on a little longer, but just want to get rid of it.

Sorry for the length of the post, with no real answers, but that is my .02, (probably asking too high for that:)) Hope it helps.


Very helpful, thanks for your reply! MY biggest issue is that I want to get the most value for the card when I am moving it. So, trading BV for BV is the way to go. I also like to have money you buy more cards. The problem is that I would have to sell a lot of cards to make it worth my time. Again, thanks for your time.

Keith

rotorob
09-07-2011, 02:30 PM
Very helpful, thanks for your reply! MY biggest issue is that I want to get the most value for the card when I am moving it. So, trading BV for BV is the way to go. I also like to have money you buy more cards. The problem is that I would have to sell a lot of cards to make it worth my time. Again, thanks for your time.

Keith

Keith -
I would start by looking for local shows, not sure what part of Indiana you're from, but Louisville has a semi-regular show with a $20 table fee. Low enough were if you don't have a great show, it doesn't hurt too bad. A good percentage of my trading on this site is geared to getting things that I can sell at shows. Trading my cards that have a decent BV for like BV cards of Votto, Bench, Chapman, etc. can yeild the $ to buy what I really want.

Glad you found the disertation helpful.

majdic2136
09-07-2011, 04:36 PM
Keith Ė
****Log read warning****
The question really becomes what is your goal in selling cards. Are you trying to turn a profit, get rid of clutter, fuel your collecting habit (that's the one for me), or is there something else?
Where you sell makes a difference as well, ebay (make sure you cover all the fees or you'll more or less send free cards), here, local shows, to your friends all have different answers.

To get some concrete answers, research completed listings on ebay, but don't take it as gospel, that will get you an idea of what a buyer is willing to pay. There are times that there are unsold cards at .99, that doesn't mean the card has no value, just that someone didnít want it at that time.

As a very general rule, base, inserts\parallels tend to bring the lowest %, RCís and G\U next and autos the most. The more popular the card, the higher % it will bring. Even high BV autos, may have to be majorly discounted to move them, sometimes a low BV auto, can bring above BV. Certain set and player collectors can really drive up prices when they compete with each other over rarer cards. Paying postage is done best on a case by case basis. If someone only wants a card or 2, you could lose money by paying postage, but if someone wants to buy more than (arbitrary number picked) $100 asking for postage, may seem petty.

There are some cards I donít sell, because they bring more in trade than I could get in $, there are some I know my asking price is too, high but I wonít part with the card unless I get my price, there are some I could get more for if I held on a little longer, but just want to get rid of it.

Sorry for the length of the post, with no real answers, but that is my .02, (probably asking too high for that:)) Hope it helps.

I don't think anyone can possibly top this...this is definitely exactly how to go about selling cards