Ebay "good deal" strategies?

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plopowitz

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Got this idea from a previous thread by NYMets6986, but didn't want to hijack his thred:

Is there a strategy involved in capitalizing on good deals, and beating other bidders to these deals, or do you attribute a good deal mainly to luck?? I would think that if you came across a "buy it now", priced cheaply, as soon as it is listed, then you may increase your chances of capitalizing on it.

I'm not asking anyone to share their secrets, but does anyone wish to share any general ideas?

Thanks,
Pete
 
Timeing......I saw a newly listed Harper red fractor serial #25 and his green refractor auto serial #399....for only $250.00 bin.....The 2011 bowman platinum red prospect refractors of Harper were going for 1st $240.00, 2nd 204.00 and third $240.00.....Hit the buy it now.....and sold the green Harper auto for $125.00....so the red refractor only costed $125.00!! Best regards, David
 
Pete,
From my limited experience from selling and buying, it seems that there are alot of people that will constantly search using the "newly listed tab" (this applies to Buy it now and Best offer) Its a strategy that works because it seems every time i list a best offer auction, there are always pple putting in bids right away that are just below the lower range of what i would reasonably want for the item. I'm sure these people continue to do this because they have success finding those that just want their item sold as quickly as possible for the cash.
Dan
 
Pete,
From my limited experience from selling and buying, it seems that there are alot of people that will constantly search using the "newly listed tab" (this applies to Buy it now and Best offer) Its a strategy that works because it seems every time i list a best offer auction, there are always pple putting in bids right away that are just below the lower range of what i would reasonably want for the item. I'm sure these people continue to do this because they have success finding those that just want their item sold as quickly as possible for the cash.
Dan

Dan,

This is precisely what I figured. Thanks for your input!!!!

Pete
 
a bit of both. If you've got plenty of time to search, I agree with Dan. I know people that use a search string (e.g. Jeter auto* -plate, -facs* )on the Buy it nows, look for the newest auctions and keep refreshing to see when anything new pops up that might be a bargain. Seems to work well for them, but some of the people I know are retired or stay at home parents and devote hours to it. Other times there is a lot of luck involved, be it catching a poorly worded auction, broadening your search for 'Orioles' and noticing that 'Cal Rikpen, Orioles HOF' title you might have not pulled up searching Ripken, Ripkin, etc, or even taking a chance on a vague description. There's also something to be said for corresponding with sellers you've done well with in the past, often times they'll cut you a decent deal on cards if they know what you collect and come across something they know you'll have a home for. They're always looking for ways to increase their profits, and SELLING DIRECT =LESS FEES.
 
Go for lots with pictures and no description or vice versa...call it inexperience or laziness, but lots can be very profitable. Generally the bigger the lot, the better deal that can be had.
 
Go for lots with pictures and no description or vice versa...call it inexperience or laziness, but lots can be very profitable. Generally the bigger the lot, the better deal that can be had.

I second this. Doesn't have to be large lots though. I picked up a lot of three cards recently - a Mantle GU bat card, a Maris GU jersey w/stripe, and a 1961 Topps Mantle in great shape. The picture was bad, the title was "Three Yankees" and the bid was incredibly low! Of course, it takes a lot of patience to find these lots, just have to keep looking.
 
Timing is everything as stated earlier. It also depends on the collector for what you listed seeing it. I don't really have a secret as it all boils down to what price I am willing to pay whether that be a BIN, a Best Offer or a straight bid. I have lost on a lot of Gehrig cards but they were above my comfort level, especially for printing plates and stuff that doesn't book. Just because it is #/25 doesn't make it a $125 card.

Dewayne
 
As stated many times before me.........timing. But timing also as in "the time of day". Lots of good deals end in the afternoon or morning and the majority of the bidders -- the prime time bidders -- cannot get to it at the last minute.
 
I've gotten a couple of great deals on ebay because of misspelled listing and badly worded listings. I'm bidding on one right now Lol. Hopefully I get a good deal on it.
 
I've gotten a couple of great deals on ebay because of misspelled listing and badly worded listings. I'm bidding on one right now Lol. Hopefully I get a good deal on it.
\


Nice!! Let me know how it turns out!!

Thanks,
Pete
 
Another way to win an item that you really need...is place numberous bids...four or five......a few dollars apart.....the buyers see this and figure...you place numerous high bids because you really want it or they think your a shiller and avoid the auction! Best regards, David
 
Another way to win an item that you really need...is place numberous bids...four or five......a few dollars apart.....the buyers see this and figure...you place numerous high bids because you really want it or they think your a shiller and avoid the auction! Best regards, David

That's very clever....................As a buyer I tend to back off in those cases, like I'm being whittled..................Never thought of it as a strategy, like chess or wrestling................
 
Another way to win an item that you really need...is place numberous bids...four or five......a few dollars apart.....the buyers see this and figure...you place numerous high bids because you really want it or they think your a shiller and avoid the auction! Best regards, David

As a buyer, this annoys me. If I see an item I am interested in, and see this behavior by a bidder, I'll place a bid or two lower than my max to see where he stands. If it becomes obvious he's higher than I want to be, I'll leave it. If not, I might try to get it at the end.

As a seller, I despise this type of behavior. Each and every time it has happened to me, I have not received any other bids. Could very well be that I wouldn't otherwise, but knowing that a bidder is trying to chase away other bids is frustrating. And if I am reading the rules correctly, I cannot cancel an individual bid, but rather cancel the user placing the bids. So, when it happens, unless someone comes along and bids that person up, I wind up on the short end. I also believe this opens things up for sellers to get shill bidders involved.

I believe eBay should change the rules. Once a bid has been made, if the same bidder bids again before another bidder places a bid, the new bid should automatically cancel the old, while still allowing the same proxy rules to be in play.

---Frank
 
As a buyer, this annoys me. If I see an item I am interested in, and see this behavior by a bidder, I'll place a bid or two lower than my max to see where he stands. If it becomes obvious he's higher than I want to be, I'll leave it. If not, I might try to get it at the end.

As a seller, I despise this type of behavior. Each and every time it has happened to me, I have not received any other bids. Could very well be that I wouldn't otherwise, but knowing that a bidder is trying to chase away other bids is frustrating. And if I am reading the rules correctly, I cannot cancel an individual bid, but rather cancel the user placing the bids. So, when it happens, unless someone comes along and bids that person up, I wind up on the short end. I also believe this opens things up for sellers to get shill bidders involved.

I believe eBay should change the rules. Once a bid has been made, if the same bidder bids again before another bidder places a bid, the new bid should automatically cancel the old, while still allowing the same proxy rules to be in play.

---Frank

It may annoy you...but its within the rules. Best regards, David
 
That's very clever....................As a buyer I tend to back off in those cases, like I'm being whittled..................Never thought of it as a strategy, like chess or wrestling................

Lots of people...Think its a shiller..but most of the time...it turns out to be someone new who wants the item.....so they place numerous bids. I'm on three different collectors site and you always see these type of threads "was I taken or does this look funny to you" .....so decided to try this method and most of the time it works. Unless you get someone who calls your bluff! Best regards, David PS more like a poker game!
 
Lots of people...Think its a shiller..but most of the time...it turns out to be someone new who wants the item.....so they place numerous bids. I'm on three different collectors site and you always see these type of threads "was I taken or does this look funny to you" .....so decided to try this method and most of the time it works. Unless you get someone who calls your bluff! Best regards, David PS more like a poker game!

Poker is a good analogy..................Don't play it, but totally understand............
 
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