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  1. bosco1's Avatar
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    #1

    Childhood Collection from late 60's to Mid 70' FB & BBs . Should I grade b4 Selling?

    Hey guys new member, Just joined. I have a rather large Football collection and a xxxlarge baseball collection from my childhood all Topps, late 60's to mid 70's. Not sure about having them graded. I'm sure they are no PSA 10 in the bunch because of age alone but was wondering if I should some of them. I do have several mid 80's to 1990 baseball cards that are "As New", Topps, Fleer, Donruss and Score.
    I would like to sell them but wanted to see if it may be in my best interest to have the super star cards graded before. Trying to wrap my head around trying to price them. Thanks in adavance for your help.
    Here's a few pic's if this helps...

    dan
    in East Tn.

    Football







    Baseball











    and the rest of the baseball I'm still going thru. Have most of the superstar rooikes from the mid-80 to 1990, Randy Johnson, Griffey Jr. etc.. not pictured..





  2. Beachbum's Avatar
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    #2
    Impressive....have fun with those treasures.
    My trade page

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  3. bosco1's Avatar
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    #3
    Purchased Beckett Price Guide, hopefully will start pricing some for everyone.....

  4. Beachbum's Avatar
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    #4
    Can you let me know what you have in Pete Rose?
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  5. neemann's Avatar
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    #5
    I can use the Steelers.
    Collecting Terry Bradshaw and players from the 70's Steelers Super Bowl teams, Larry Bird, and John Havlicek

  6. metsman1986's Avatar
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    Go to metsman1986's ebay items
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    #6
    I would lose the rubber bands! Put them in team bags instead.........Don't think you can sell here yet; you have to hit a certain trade number first...........
    mikekestner.com/mm86

    No more PWE trades, please........The USPS doesn't like them sent from Memphis........

  7. Camsue's Avatar
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    #7
    Very nice
    "Live Each Day As If It Were Your Last...
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  8. SymphonicMetal's Avatar
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    #8
    Some very impressive cards in that lot!

    From the looks of them, I would not get them graded unless you find a REALLY nice condition card that is high priced. I can see from the scans that many of the older cards show damage so you definitely don't want to bother getting those graded as it would be a waste of money. I would just grade them yourself if I were you unless you find a really top condition copy of one of your bigger cards (ie The Schmidt RC, the Bradshaw RC etc),

    Even though many of your cards appear to be in lesser grade you should be able to make a fair amount of money on them as you have so many big name older cards. And whatever you do, DO NOT hand them over to someone and let them go through them and tell you what you have. Too many trusting people hand over their collections to unscrupulous people and get their collection gutted unbeknownst to them. That happens a lot more than you'd think.

    I see you have a lot of 1973 Topps baseball high numbers. Be sure to carefully check your guide for the number ranges that are more expensive. Your 1970 Mays is a semi high number I believe and if you have any 1972 Topps football that are numbered over 264 put those aside because the commons run about $20 apiece..

    A very nice collection of cards to say the least!

  9. bosco1's Avatar
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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Beachbum View Post
    Can you let me know what you have in Pete Rose?
    will do...

  10. bosco1's Avatar
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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by SymphonicMetal View Post
    Some very impressive cards in that lot!

    From the looks of them, I would not get them graded unless you find a REALLY nice condition card that is high priced. I can see from the scans that many of the older cards show damage so you definitely don't want to bother getting those graded as it would be a waste of money. I would just grade them yourself if I were you unless you find a really top condition copy of one of your bigger cards (ie The Schmidt RC, the Bradshaw RC etc),

    Even though many of your cards appear to be in lesser grade you should be able to make a fair amount of money on them as you have so many big name older cards. And whatever you do, DO NOT hand them over to someone and let them go through them and tell you what you have. Too many trusting people hand over their collections to unscrupulous people and get their collection gutted unbeknownst to them. That happens a lot more than you'd think.

    I see you have a lot of 1973 Topps baseball high numbers. Be sure to carefully check your guide for the number ranges that are more expensive. Your 1970 Mays is a semi high number I believe and if you have any 1972 Topps football that are numbered over 264 put those aside because the commons run about $20 apiece..

    A very nice collection of cards to say the least!
    Thank you so much for this info. On grading I was thinking the Staubach rc, Bradshaw rc & Franco rc. Maybe the Bench rc & Schmidt rc. I will ck them out closer. Tks again...

  11. bosco1's Avatar
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    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by neemann View Post
    I can use the Steelers.
    pm sent

  12. SymphonicMetal's Avatar
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    #12
    Dennis I see you have a 1970 Topps Seattle Pilots team card which means you have high numbers for that set. You need to pull out all your 1970 Topps Baseball cards that are numbered from 634 to 720 as commons are worth $10 each and are in high demand in any condition. Bench and Ryan are in that particular series and are worth a fair amount.

    Also those unnumbered team checklists in 1973 and 1974 baseball and football are in high demand if they are unmarked. They look like nothing cards but they are hard to find unmarked and in decent shape.

    If you have a 1970 Topps Poster #7 Willie McCovey in NM shape, I'd be interested in it. And I also need a 1971 Topps football card #175 John Mackey in lesser condition too. If you have wither of those please PM me and I am sure we can work something out.

  13. bosco1's Avatar
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    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by SymphonicMetal View Post
    Dennis I see you have a 1970 Topps Seattle Pilots team card which means you have high numbers for that set. You need to pull out all your 1970 Topps Baseball cards that are numbered from 634 to 720 as commons are worth $10 each and are in high demand in any condition. Bench and Ryan are in that particular series and are worth a fair amount.

    Also those unnumbered team checklists in 1973 and 1974 baseball and football are in high demand if they are unmarked. They look like nothing cards but they are hard to find unmarked and in decent shape.

    If you have a 1970 Topps Poster #7 Willie McCovey in NM shape, I'd be interested in it. And I also need a 1971 Topps football card #175 John Mackey in lesser condition too. If you have wither of those please PM me and I am sure we can work something out.
    Wow that's incredible thank you...

  14. SymphonicMetal's Avatar
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    #14
    I'm going to give youa list of the sets I see that have high numbers and provide the minimum value for cards in that series. Remember there are cards within those series that are worth much more and these cards are the ones you really have to watch out for.

    BASEBALL HIGH NUMBERS

    1973 Topps 529 thru 660 $3.00 ea.
    1972 Topps 657 thru 787 $12.00 ea.
    1971 Topps 644 thru 752 $8.00 ea.
    1970 Topps 634 thru 720 $10 ea.
    1968 and 1969 Topps have high numbers but they are not worth that much more than the earlier series cards
    1967 Topps 534-609 $15 ea.

    FOOTBALL HIGH NUMBERS

    1972 Topps 264 thru 351 $18 each

    I am doing the 1972 Topps football off the top of my head but I know I am close on that info if not exact. I did not spot any high numbers for this set in your scans like I did with the 1970 and 1973 Topps baseballs. They are scare as hen's teeth and I have never seen a hen with teeth!

    If you have cards numbered in those ranges for those sets, put them aside as they are high demand cards.

  15. heritage's Avatar
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    #15
    Nice star power.

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